budapesti ohne gulash

finally i have been to budapest (the first attempt was a disaster. i missed the flight by four precious minutes!).
budapest was all that i imagined and more. i was lucky because i already had a friend who made it easier for me to discover this gem of a city. although at times i got the feeling that i could be in prague or vienna, what with similar architectural heritage, when i stepped out off the city centre limit, budapest had a different story to tell. you could feel its socialist past. you could spot the gentrification trend. you could see life is not that easy for its people. and, above all, you could easily discern the blossoming hope of this new eu member. would love to visit it in a couple of years again.
this trip also thrilled the foodie in me. my friend maria took me to her parents place -- a small town, about an hour and half from budapest. her family took pains to introduce me to some typical hungarian dishes. finger licking good is all i can say.
if you ever make it to budapest, i would suggest to look beyond the customary gulash (which by the way, i never had in budapest and i strongly believe that the restaurants that advertise gulash cater only to tourists). walk around the city centre and you will find quaint little places with a menu that has something for everyone. we discovered (much to maria's delight) a small restaurant that smacks attitude right in the middle of ráday street -- it is called mode (german for fashion). great presentation of food that tastes good and is affordable! what more can one ask for, eh?